The Art & Science of Wick Selection for Beginning Candle Makers

At The Angelina Store, we’ve learned a thing or two about candle making, often through trial, error, and a fair share of wax-covered lessons. I’m stubborn, impatient and I like to “learn as I go,” which has resulted in more messes than I can count! By no means an expert (there’s always room for improvement), I do have experience to share that may save beginning candle-makers some time, trouble and expense. 

As I sit here test burning a wick for a molded candle, I’m reminded of one of the most crucial steps for any candle maker: choosing the right wick. Some of my first candles burned like mini-outdoor fireplaces, with four-inch flames blasting upwards, wildly flickering. 

Choosing the right wick is a process that can make or break your candle, and it’s not as simple as it seems. So, let’s light up some advice for beginners with a “Lessons Learned” guide on why wicks matter, why test burns are non-negotiable, and how to navigate the winding path of wick selection.

Why Wicks Matter

A wick isn’t just a piece of string—it’s the heart of your candle, the engine that drives the burn. Pick the wrong one, and you’ll end up with a candle that tunnels (burning a hole down the middle), soots excessively, or drowns in its own melt pool. Too small, and the flame will be weak, leaving unburned wax along the edges. Too large, and you’ll get a roaring flame that burns too hot, smokes, or even cracks your container. The right wick ensures a clean, even burn, a steady flame, and a scent throw that fills the room without overwhelming it.

But here’s the catch: there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. The perfect wick for one candle might be a disaster for another, even if you’re using the same wax and container. Let’s break down the factors that influence wick choice and why test burns are your best friend.

The Variables of Wick Selection

Wick selection is a balancing act, and several factors come into play:

Type of Wax: Different waxes burn at different temperatures. Soy wax, like I use for my “Les Fleurs du Melt” wax melts, burns cooler and slower, often requiring a larger wick to create a full melt pool. Beeswax burns hotter and might need a smaller wick to avoid overheating. Coconut wax, often blended with soy, burns at a moderate rate but can vary depending on the blend. Each wax type interacts differently with the wick, so you’ll need to adjust accordingly.

Type of Wick: Wicks come in various materials, each with its own quirks. Cotton wicks (like the CD or ECO series) are classic and versatile, offering a steady burn for most waxes. Hemp wicks burn slower and cooler, which can be great for softer waxes like soy but might struggle with hotter waxes like beeswax. Wood wicks add a crackling ambiance but can be finicky, often requiring a larger size to avoid tunneling, especially in wider containers. I’ve found cotton wicks work best for my molded candles, but it’s worth experimenting to find what suits your style.

Size of Mold or Container: The diameter of your candle determines how much wax needs to melt for a full pool. A small votive (1.5 inches wide) needs a smaller wick than a 4-inch-wide jar. For my skull-shaped molded candles, the odd shape makes this even trickier—the narrow top and wider base mean the melt pool doesn’t form evenly, so I often have to compromise on wick size.

Fragrance Load and Type: Fragrance oils can drastically affect how a wick burns. A heavy fragrance load (e.g., 10% vs. 6%) can clog the wick, leading to a weaker flame or more soot. Even the type of fragrance matters—some oils, like citrus or vanilla, burn hotter than florals like honeysuckle or geranium. I’ve noticed that the same wick in the same jar with the same soy wax can burn perfectly with one scent but struggle with another, just because of the fragrance’s chemical makeup. Brands matter too; a honeysuckle oil from one supplier might burn differently than another’s due to variations in formulation.

The Deep Dive: Wick Sizing

Choosing the right wick size is where the real work begins. Wicks are typically labeled by series (e.g., CD, HTP, ECO) and size (e.g., CD-8, HTP-104). The size indicates the wick’s diameter and burn rate, but it’s not universal—what’s a “medium” in one series might be a “large” in another. This is where test burns come in, but first, let’s look at how to narrow down your starting point.

CandleScience, a trusted resource in the candle-making community, has an excellent wick guide that I often refer to. They recommend starting with the container diameter:

• 1–2 inches: Small wicks (e.g., CD-3, HTP-31)
• 2–3 inches: Medium wicks (e.g., CD-8, HTP-83)
• 3–4 inches: Large wicks (e.g., CD-14, HTP-126)

For molded candles like my skulls, it’s trickier. The irregular shape means the melt pool doesn’t form evenly, so I often start with a wick size for a slightly smaller diameter than the widest part of the mold (e.g., treating a 3-inch-wide skull like a 2.5-inch jar). CandleScience also suggests factoring in wax type and fragrance load—soy wax with a high fragrance load might need a larger wick to ensure a full melt pool.